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View Full Version : Plate options for outdoor build.............


BananasRUS
May 18th, 2010, 05:28 PM
I am still looking for the ideal set-up for my outdoor build. :( I am going to try more than one option, so let me know what you guys and gals think, since I am no where near as informed as you all are! :wink:

Just FYI............I weigh 185 pounds and I wear a size 11 boot. I plan on using these plates outdoors on smooth pavement and concrete, with the occassional brick or cobblestones mixed in. I would like some lightweight, but I also want some speed, agility, and stability, as well. I know I can't have all of these to be exactly the way I want it, but a nice mix would be fine by me.

I am going to try and experiment with both a short, forward mount, a medium-plate length "sport' mount, as well as a longer, more traditional mount. I have been skating on the same two plates, an Ultimate II w/a 7.25" WB indoors and a Playmaker plate outdoors w/a 7.125" WB (approximately). These are the only two plates I have used in the past 25+ years, besides a Laser I also had at one time for awhile, one of the older versions that needed to be soaked in water evry six months or so.

Here are my choices:

----Laser
----White Magnum
----Yellow Magnum
----Skins
----Nova
----(Australian) Metal LXT Lazer plate
----(Australian) Atlantis nylon plates

I currently have a newer Laser, and I have ordered the Magnums. I am in the process of ordering the Aussie plates, too. I would try the Skins and/or the Nova's, as well, if the consensus here is to give either of those plates a go-round. :smile:

I have already heard that the white magnums may not be the best choice for outdoor use, in regards to the moisture possibilities. The yellow one might be better for this. As far as the Skins, I have heard that I might weigh a bit much for it, but if I am careful enough, I should not have any problems. But, being outdoors, you never know what to expect or what may happen, either.

Any advice, comments, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance for reading my rather lengthy post! :biggrin:

Armadillo
May 18th, 2010, 07:45 PM
The metal plates on this list offer little help absorbing vibrations.

Doing a glue mounted build allows even the weakest nylon plates to become stiff.
All nylon plates, especially when a carbon fiber stiffening sheet is used, will handle outdoor skating well if they are properly glue mounted. Even the 200+lb. skaters can use them, though trucks may need to be metal rather than nylon. The key thing is to get a LONG ENOUGH plate, so that it can have a front axle sufficiently FORWARD MOUNTED for optimum outdoor performance.
The next key thing is that this longer plate must have the best possible TURNING RESPONSE, since longer plates tend to reduce turning response.

So, I suggest you get an S-G Skins plate that's upgraded to the DA-45 conversion. You will then have EXCELLENT, adjustable pivot pin, metal trucks (which also allows for mounting the essential Heel Stop) and a plate with a large flat area of contact with the shoe/boot sole. You will have outstanding turning response, despite the longer plate length. Plus, you can get them with the new Super Cushions in the softer firmness of 72A or 79A that further improve outdoor skating comfort.
I don't know much about the Australian plates, but I doubt that they can match or exceed the turning response of a Skins DA-45 build.They may have other features to recommend them, but I still doubt they can match the performance of a glue mounted S-G Skins build.

-Armadillo

Iggy
May 19th, 2010, 05:58 AM
I would second the DA-45 Skins. I'm running an Omega converted to DA 45 with Marathon trucks and it's really nice outdoor. And I'm about 200 lbs. It's about a 7.25" wheelbase on a size 11 boot and is just about perfect. Next step it to hack the toe stops off and Aussie mount them.

I was running a magnesium Marathon outdoor and it wasn't bad on smooth pavement. But like you said, the possible moisture/magnesium mixture wouldn't end well.

cass38a
May 19th, 2010, 12:36 PM
The NTS lazer x tecs are a great plate for the $$$$$, Flemo has been racing on them this year (FYI he has Boens and Prolines sitting at home) and rates them highly. You want the front axel under the joint of the big toe and foot and the back one under the ankle bone. Coupled with a set of 70mm wheels and you will be sweet.

I think the stuff about the Magnesium plates being no good outdoors is just a load of crap, it is part of the properities of the material that they get a surface corrosion. Lots of cars use magnesium in gearbox and engine castings and they are subjected to splashes of water for years without problems so a set of skates will not suffer with the small amount of moisture you will subject them to.

ogfarmskater
May 19th, 2010, 06:33 PM
The metal plates on this list offer little help absorbing vibrations.

Doing a glue mounted build allows even the weakest nylon plates to become stiff.
All nylon plates, especially when a carbon fiber stiffening sheet is used, will handle outdoor skating well if they are properly glue mounted. Even the 200+lb. skaters can use them, though trucks may need to be metal rather than nylon. The key thing is to get a LONG ENOUGH plate, so that it can have a front axle sufficiently FORWARD MOUNTED for optimum outdoor performance.
The next key thing is that this longer plate have the best possible TURNING RESPONSE, since longer plates tend to reduce turning response.

So, I suggest you get an S-G Skins plate that's upgraded to the DA-45 conversion. You will then have EXCELLENT, adjustable pivot pin, metal trucks (which also allows for mounting the essential Heel Stop) and a plate with a large flat area of contact with the shoe/boot sole. You will have outstanding turning response, despite the longer plate length. Plus, you can get them with the new Super Cushions in the softer firmness of 72A or 79A that further improve outdoor skating comfort.
I don't know much about the Australian plates, but I doubt that they can match or exceed the turning response of a Skins DA-45 build.They may have other features to recommend them, but I still doubt they can match the performance of a glue mounted S-G Skins build.

-Armadillo


Where do you source the carbon fiber backing pl8s? And as well what glue do you like to use? I am with you on your outdoor builds I think I might build me some with your style.. Sneakers stiffining pl8s and skins and some roll line wheels..

BananasRUS
May 19th, 2010, 07:30 PM
Where do you source the carbon fiber backing pl8s? And as well what glue do you like to use? I am with you on your outdoor builds I think I might build me some with your style.. Sneakers stiffining pl8s and skins and some roll line wheels..

The carbon fiber sheets come from:

www.dragonplate.com

Please correct me if I am wrong, but the particular sheets that Armadillo has used are the 3/32" Dragon Plate Birch Core Carbon Fiber sheets. Just FYI...........once you go to their website, you need to scroll almost to the bottom of their home page to see this one listed. They come in several different sizes, or they can be special ordered to your specifications. The size you need will depend on the shoe and plate your using, and since they are not inexpensive, you should the smallest size you can, measure, and cut very carefully!!

I hope this helps!

Armadillo
May 19th, 2010, 08:05 PM
Where do you source the carbon fiber backing pl8s? And as well what glue do you like to use? I am with you on your outdoor builds I think I might build me some with your style.. Sneakers stiffining pl8s and skins and some roll line wheels..

The Dragonplate material is a tri-axial carbon faced laminate over birch wood core. I use 3/32" 1/8" or 5/32" thickness depending on the size & weight of the person and the design of the plate.

The glue I use for joining plate to carbon sheet is Gorilla brand Super glue, which tolerates some flexing. From the carbon to the sole, I use Shoe Goo urethane adhesive. The urethane adhesives do work best if you keep the gap to a minimum. As you fill larger gaps with the urethane adhesive, it takes progressively longer to fully cure and it shrinks much more, often requiring a 2nd application. However, it does have the absolute best adhesion once it fully cures.

-Armadillo