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Old September 11th, 2016, 08:02 PM   #13
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chicago, Near the Lake
Posts: 5,719

Originally Posted by osrix View Post
Old thread I know, But I just came across a similar problem when I came to change the Plates on a pair of Suregrip Rebel Avengers.

I looks like Suregrip in their wisdom have actually nipped the end of each bolt to stop the nut from coming off accidentally, but which also makes it a right pain to take them off to change boot or plate.

As above I think I will have to take a die grinder to the end of the bolts to remove the "nip" and allow me to get the nut past the last thread.
either that or a long job with a file.

Good to know the boot fixing arent going to loose their nuts in a hurry, not so good for a 5 minute job to swap some plates over!

Maybe I'll swap them out for allen heads as Armadillo suggests, for the refit, might make life easier to tighten the fronts.
Are you using countersunk or button head screws Armadillo?
I only use T-nuts inside, but If I couldnt use T-Nuts, I would use flat head stainless socket screws inside, along with an oversize hole thin washer under the head.

The oversize hole in washer should just barely keep the flat head from pulling through, so that it doesn't leave the top of flat head protruding upward.
Holding washer in a channel lock pliers and hitting hole it lightly with an 82 countersink will let you fine tune the the engagement of head to washer for a near perfect flush matchup.

On this McMaster page, you can choose from various thickness of "shim" washers that have a hole ID size matching up well with 8-32 size flat head socket screws, plus an OD in the 5/8" to 3/4" range.

If you want to spend a bit more on the ss screws you can get the nylon insert style and then use thinner standard nuts against the plate underside for less protursion there.

Rollin' on AIR
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