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Ask DocSk8 (Expert Indoor Skate Building Advice) This forum is different then the other SkateLog forums in that it is not a discussion forum, but rather a place you can ask skate building expert Fred "DocSk8" Benjamin about building and repairing indoor speed, derby, and jamskate quad roller skates. Please start a new thread for each new question.

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Old April 21st, 2011, 04:12 PM   #121
Doc Sk8
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How much grease do you put in each bearing?

Not a whole lot..

How do you put the grease in (one little glob, many tiny globs, pack the bearing or ...)?
Usually a small squirt between every other ball...
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Old April 26th, 2011, 04:25 PM   #122
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What are the indicators that your bearings need to be cleaned? Is there a timeline at which to start the cleaning process? I've been skating on a brand new set of Bones Swiss for two weeks and while I think I could give cleaning them a try after reading all this, do they really need to be.. yet?
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Old April 27th, 2011, 07:13 AM   #123
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What are the indicators that your bearings need to be cleaned? Is there a timeline at which to start the cleaning process? I've been skating on a brand new set of Bones Swiss for two weeks and while I think I could give cleaning them a try after reading all this, do they really need to be.. yet?
The "correct" answer here depends on how often you skate, where you skate and the conditions...

If you skate one or two sessions a week in a clean indoor rink then you're probably nowhere near needing to clean yet (I personally only clean my bearings when I feel that they're "slowing down" - usually once a month or less).

If you skate every night on a dirty indoor rink then you may need to clean them (depends on sheild type here though, metal shielded bearings tend to let in more dust than rubber or plastic ones)

If you skate outdoors then you should at least check them before each outing (turn each wheel by hand to feel for grit and/or binding) then clean as necessary.

General rule (for me) would be to check them every now and again, if they feel gritty or they bind at all then clean/relube them.
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Old May 15th, 2011, 03:30 AM   #124
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i use acetone works good for me.. i also have used amonia it worked good aswell.
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Old May 22nd, 2011, 01:46 PM   #125
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Okay - in regards to the new bearings I put on then tried to skate with...
YES - THEY WERE PACKED WITH STUFF. I guess I'm just so used to my bearings rolling with super ease (from all the great advice peviously given) that I never realized how horrible slow bearings could be!!! Yes, they would have been okay, and maybe over weeks would have loosened up but I'm impatient. So essentially, I need to get the tremendous goop cleaned out that is packed in them before the next meet/practice or I'm going to be doing my tortoise impression again.

Again, thanks to everyone for all the advice! I used to think I knew it all, but the internet has again proven me wrong. lol I know everyone has a favorite way of doing it, and some things work better for some than others, so just wanted to share what I heard in case anyone else is looking for MORE advice like I am. lol

Happy cleaning!
Thanks for posting this! It's taken a while to find out why my bearings were running so slow... Clean & re-lube mission is now underway
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Old June 16th, 2011, 10:40 PM   #126
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what's your guys's opinion on this idea.

i have an air compressor (who doesnt) with an attachment that looks like a straw


drill a hole in a peanut butter jar the same size as the straw... plop the bearings in, and your favorite cleaning solution... and stick the straw part in the hole, close the lid, and shoot compressed air in. there would have to be some sort of vent to let the air out.... havnt thought of how to do that yet.. doc seems to be the engineer type... any ideas? does it seem like a good idea?
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Old June 17th, 2011, 02:45 AM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevbrdly View Post
what's your guys's opinion on this idea.

i have an air compressor (who doesnt) with an attachment that looks like a straw


drill a hole in a peanut butter jar the same size as the straw... plop the bearings in, and your favorite cleaning solution... and stick the straw part in the hole, close the lid, and shoot compressed air in. there would have to be some sort of vent to let the air out.... havnt thought of how to do that yet.. doc seems to be the engineer type... any ideas? does it seem like a good idea?
They are just skate bearings peoples. Just do the shake and rinse method
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Old June 17th, 2011, 05:32 AM   #128
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I just used engine degreaser, soaked them over night, and now my china REDS are china Pinks lol, free spin decreased but while skating they out performed every other bearing I've tried (bones Swiss, ILQ-9 Pro and Classic).
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Old June 17th, 2011, 07:41 PM   #129
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They are just skate bearings peoples. Just do the shake and rinse method
bored at work = time to come up with new ways to clean bearings. lol
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Old June 18th, 2011, 01:49 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by Stevbrdly View Post
what's your guys's opinion on this idea.

i have an air compressor (who doesnt) with an attachment that looks like a straw


drill a hole in a peanut butter jar the same size as the straw... plop the bearings in, and your favorite cleaning solution... and stick the straw part in the hole, close the lid, and shoot compressed air in. there would have to be some sort of vent to let the air out.... havnt thought of how to do that yet.. doc seems to be the engineer type... any ideas? does it seem like a good idea?
Just soaking the bearings will do, shooting compressed air in would be an excellent way to get the solution in your eyes, ears, nose and throat, the newish bont bearing spinner would be good for agitating the bearings.
But that gizmo would be great for blowing the bearing clean after soaking before oiling.
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Old June 18th, 2011, 06:13 PM   #131
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i'll do a test (with full protection mind you all) and report my findings. maybe even pictures

Also, where do i get things to dissolve rust? i have a set of 7mm gmn bearings that need to be un-locked.
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Old June 18th, 2011, 08:32 PM   #132
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Default Rust removal??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevbrdly View Post
i'll do a test (with full protection mind you all) and report my findings. maybe even pictures

Also, where do i get things to dissolve rust? i have a set of 7mm gmn bearings that need to be un-locked.
Kano labs.. Aero Kroil. (Seems to be a goodly supply on the bay...) I have yet to find something corrosion related that this stuff could not free up. As far as dissolving... I have never had to do that...
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Old June 19th, 2011, 01:22 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevbrdly View Post
i'll do a test (with full protection mind you all) and report my findings. maybe even pictures

Also, where do i get things to dissolve rust? i have a set of 7mm gmn bearings that need to be un-locked.
I found some stuff called "Deep Creep" by Sea Foam. I had some locked up bearings and let them soak in there for a little while. Every so often I`d take the frozen ones and work them back and forth until they freed up. They spin like new now.
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Old June 19th, 2011, 02:37 PM   #134
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... As far as dissolving... I have never had to do that...
i couldnt think of a better word... lol
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Old December 27th, 2011, 08:29 AM   #135
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I was recently given a set of NMB bearings with shields on both sides. For future reference how exactly do I get the shields off when it comes time to clean them? Preferrably without injuring myself.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 08:58 AM   #136
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I was recently given a set of NMB bearings with shields on both sides. For future reference how exactly do I get the shields off when it comes time to clean them? Preferrably without injuring myself.
The sets I've had, you don't take the shields off.
But I still take them off anyway. I use a small (watch makers) flat head screwdriver and just pop it through the seal on the inner race, then just rip the bastards out.
Needle nose pliers are good for that part.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 09:40 AM   #137
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The sets I've had, you don't take the shields off.
But I still take them off anyway. I use a small (watch makers) flat head screwdriver and just pop it through the seal on the inner race, then just rip the bastards out.
Needle nose pliers are good for that part.
That's exactly what I wanted to know, thanks.
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Old December 27th, 2011, 02:40 PM   #138
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Default Pretty much what I do..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Nick View Post
The sets I've had, you don't take the shields off.
But I still take them off anyway. I use a small (watch makers) flat head screwdriver and just pop it through the seal on the inner race, then just rip the bastards out.
Needle nose pliers are good for that part.
I guess I'm too lazy to change tools... Once the shield has popped up, I just work the screwdriver around the inner lip until the shield releases from the outer race, then toss it and move on to the next one...
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Old January 17th, 2012, 04:26 PM   #139
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Default Pure Silicone

Doc... what are your thoughts on pure silicone spray as a lubricant? after cleaning..

I work for a custom window and door manufacturer and using WD40 is a big NO NO. We use pure silicone spray on our multipoint locks/gear boxes.

What say you?
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Old January 17th, 2012, 04:47 PM   #140
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Doc... what are your thoughts on pure silicone spray as a lubricant? after cleaning..

I work for a custom window and door manufacturer and using WD40 is a big NO NO. We use pure silicone spray on our multipoint locks/gear boxes.

What say you?
I'm not a fan of WD 40 or Silicone grease / spray for skate bearings.. Silicone is intended to aid sliding not rolling... But give it a try.. You never know, you might just have the next big thing..
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