S k a t e L o g     F o r u m
Inline Skating and Quad Roller Skating
Forum Hosts: Jessica Wright | Kathie Fry

FOLLOW US: Our Blog | Facebook | Twitter | Email    


Home - Forum Index - Africa Skating - Asia Skating - Europe Skating - Oceania Skating - Pan America Skating - Roller_Rinks - Friend the SkateLog Forum in Facebook - SkateLog Forum on Facebook

Forum Administrators: Jessica Wright and Kathie Fry | Email Us
Access code for buying and selling subforums: "skates"
How To Get a User Account and Posting Privileges in the SkateLog Forum
Use Google to Search the SkateLog Forum

Go Back   SkateLog Forum > Special Interest Skating Forums (sorted by number of posts) > Ask DocSk8 (Expert Indoor Skate Building Advice)
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Ask DocSk8 (Expert Indoor Skate Building Advice) This forum is different then the other SkateLog forums in that it is not a discussion forum, but rather a place you can ask skate building expert Fred "DocSk8" Benjamin about building and repairing indoor speed, derby, and jamskate quad roller skates. Please start a new thread for each new question.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old October 20th, 2017, 12:52 AM   #21
fierocious1
Senior Member
 
fierocious1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 4,436
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Sk8 View Post
However I don't use any "magic" oil either. Grease baby, grease... Even on my Fafnirs, WIB, Boss and Bones Swiss.
Well...OK I have been known to use a little BSB/Casterol Professional Race Oil (That is what it says on the can.... Talk about magic...well @ least the info on the pump can looks like magic to me. All synthetic, polarized molecules... eieio...Bought a couple of cases cheap years ago. May be 1/3 of the way through the first one.
I never use oil either, grease all the way. If I buy new bearings, long ago I did, I wash them out(they are clean anyway) put in a good standard or synthetic grease. Nothing fancy as the seals have very minute drag and grease even less. I never thought spinning a bearing was how to determine how good it was, but to determine if it were damaged or not only. The difference between new or good bearings having drag under loads is so minimal it is just not worth comparing. Especially compared to the difference in wheels, which can really be felt and measured reliably.
Besides, I'm cheap on bearings, run 'em and chunk them when they fail. $30 bearings are just as good rolling as high dollar bearings. Been running a set of inline, resale shop skate bearings for nearly 3 years now. I had to throw away a couple the other day, I never even greased them.... I have better things to do than sit around and waste time tearing down and cleaning bearings. Did that in the loose ball roller bearing days, wore the crap out of the cones back in the day.
fierocious1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old October 20th, 2017, 02:58 AM   #22
jcmil2
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: La Fayette, GA
Posts: 18
Smile Still weighing ideas

Quote:
Originally Posted by amohrfeld View Post
I doubt the bearings are the issue. Unless someone packed them with grease. But that probably did not happen. Look at the suspension and wheels. Maybe even the plate mounting on the boot. Consider softer cushions or adjusting the pre-load.
As of that writing I had just given them a bath and a drink of 3-in-1 and they almost seemed a bit better. The cushions are stock for the Century, giving thought to the SG purples (medium). I think the stock ones (black) are firm. This time at least I have the option of different cushions, my last skates were Classics with the oversize rubber ones. At any rate, I have them loose but not too much so, can deflect them maybe a half-inch to either side but it takes a bit of effort. I fear loosening much more will make them hard to control for me, hence maybe a softer cushion as you suggest and adjust them similarly to what I'm running now. The wheels can't get a whole lot harder than they are at 101A, but there are 103's available (yeah, I know none of them are supposed to be harder than 100 according to the scale). I've also been musing about a different brand of 101's, like the SG Royals or the Varsity Plus from Riedell with hubs. And, like I said in the OP, Qube 8-balls for the reasons I mentioned. I'm already saving my pennies to do the Harry's stud conversion to make them easier to tweak.
jcmil2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old October 20th, 2017, 09:38 PM   #23
Doc Sk8
Yankee Catfish
 
Doc Sk8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Big hill on Mars
Posts: 12,037
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcmil2 View Post
As of that writing I had just given them a bath and a drink of 3-in-1 and they almost seemed a bit better. The cushions are stock for the Century, giving thought to the SG purples (medium).

There is no "medium" super cushion. Purple is medium firm, yellow is medium soft. Red is brick hard as the color implies, blue is really soft.

I think the stock ones (black) are firm.

The purple Supers are targeted to be very close to the black stock cushions durometer wise. Rebound is a whole different story. .

This time at least I have the option of different cushions, my last skates were Classics with the oversize rubber ones.

There are 3 different durometers of Classic cushions...


At any rate, I have them loose but not too much so, can deflect them maybe a half-inch to either side but it takes a bit of effort. I fear loosening much more will make them hard to control for me, hence maybe a softer cushion as you suggest and adjust them similarly to what I'm running now. The wheels can't get a whole lot harder than they are at 101A, but there are 103's available (yeah, I know none of them are supposed to be harder than 100 according to the scale). I've also been musing about a different brand of 101's, like the SG Royals or the Varsity Plus from Riedell with hubs. And, like I said in the OP, Qube 8-balls for the reasons I mentioned. I'm already saving my pennies to do the Harry's stud conversion to make them easier to tweak.
Do not clean out a new set of Qube 8 balls to oil them. The Kluber grease in that bearing is specifically engineered to do the best job possible. When the start to get noisy, clean and oil them if you wish. You will get to clean them far more often though.
__________________
If you are willing to compromise on results, by all means, compromise on equipment. If you think you can get by, you most likely will...Just get by.
Doc Sk8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old October 21st, 2017, 06:52 AM   #24
Mort
Sk8 Ninja
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Huntington Wv
Posts: 3,179
Default

Remember urethane hardness has nothing to do with how well it will roll.

If you want pristine roll get a well machined hub, like a Faster/super enforcer, and 96A to VFH Scott Corey tyres. Or if you need some narrower stuff he can do that too. Like as slim as 28mm width I believe.


Did you check your axle straightness yet? This matters a good deal.

Also, if you want a bit more action without going down to the next cushion, add some suspension (car chassis grease) between the area where the truck contacts the cushions. So smooth. You can also use flat washers instead of cushion cups. The shape of the retainer/washer can greatly effect action ramp up resistance.

Urethane does not compress, it only deflects/deforms, so changing its packaging constraints will surprise ya.
__________________
Home rink: Roll-A-Rama in Huntington Wv.
"Focus on form and speed is a byproduct, focus on speed and falling is a byproduct." - Matguy
Mort is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 02:48 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.