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Quad Roller Skating Forum Discussions about quad roller skates and any other quad skating discussions that do not seem appropriate for one of our other forums.

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Old October 13th, 2017, 02:29 AM   #21
Joey
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Originally Posted by Dekindy View Post
Riedell boots $269-$315
Suregrip Avanti aluminum or Magnesium plate $99-$190
Suregrip Zombie wheels $99
Bones Reds or Super Reds $28-$46

Based upon your comments in #16, this is what I would suggest.
Sounds good, except my build is for outdoors, so considering the narrow version of Radar Energy wheels in 78a for starters. Or Atom Road Hogs.

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Get them unassembled and have them assembled by someone that knows what they are doing or order through Doc Sk8 or DVW.
I got that handled. Built plenty of skates long, long ago. Also built many more inline setups as I used to sell them in a pro shop. Hockey and speed mostly.

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Originally Posted by fierocious1 View Post
...because you can remove the kingpin if you need to do machining...
Likely not getting quite that deep into this pair of skates.

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Good to have another tuner on here..
Thanks. You have NO idea. This is my longboard tackle box with a few inline goodies thrown in:

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Old October 13th, 2017, 03:32 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Joey View Post
Sounds good, except my build is for outdoors, so considering the narrow version of Radar Energy wheels in 78a for starters. Or Atom Road Hogs.



I got that handled. Built plenty of skates long, long ago. Also built many more inline setups as I used to sell them in a pro shop. Hockey and speed mostly.



Likely not getting quite that deep into this pair of skates.



Thanks. You have NO idea. This is my longboard tackle box with a few inline goodies thrown in:

Nice tackle box! I had to quit using my big box, it was just too much and way too heavy. I'm liking using tall cones. Working out pretty good too.
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Old October 14th, 2017, 11:30 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dekindy View Post
Riedell boots $269-$315
Suregrip Avanti aluminum or Magnesium plate $99-$190
Suregrip Zombie wheels $99
Bones Reds or Super Reds $28-$46

Based upon your comments in #16, this is what I would suggest.

Get them unassembled and have them assembled by someone that knows what they are doing or order through Doc Sk8 or DVW.
This is a pretty good recommendation. I would add a Bont Quad Racer boot in there. Most find the fit superior to Riedell and no break in.
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Old October 15th, 2017, 05:40 PM   #24
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So this is what I ended up with from the local derby shop:

Power-Dyne Reactors. I will let you folks know whats-up when I get rolling on them. Nice they had my size in stock for this one and a better one. Trucks are black, cushions are orange for now. As a weird bonus - holes in the shoes from the original plates lined up but not sure I will use them exactly, but I will try that first.

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Old October 16th, 2017, 03:06 AM   #25
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So this is what I ended up with from the local derby shop:

Power-Dyne Reactors. I will let you folks know whats-up when I get rolling on them. Nice they had my size in stock for this one and a better one. Trucks are black, cushions are orange for now. As a weird bonus - holes in the shoes from the original plates lined up but not sure I will use them exactly, but I will try that first.

Many steps above junk skates for sure!
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Old October 16th, 2017, 03:17 AM   #26
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Many steps above junk skates for sure!
Skated in the house only so far. WAAAAAAAY better. Can slalom on one foot even.

Thanks everyone! Glad to be back in Quadville!
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Old October 19th, 2017, 01:40 AM   #27
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Figured I would wrap this thread up with some shots of my "final" setup. Wheels are on loan from a friend so this will change eventually.

Skated 36 miles the past two days (5 sessions I think) on the new setup and except for some tired feet (from fighting the "feel" of the quads after 25 years on inlines) all is good! New plates are sweet right out of the box, shoes are not bad, and wheels are 78a and i would like even softer!

Thanks again everyone! I'm all set now. Look for me around the quad boards!



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Old October 23rd, 2017, 05:45 PM   #28
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You should have enough clearance to fit Krypto Route 65 or maybe 70 on there. Hard to go wrong with those.
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Old October 23rd, 2017, 07:11 PM   #29
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You should have enough clearance to fit Krypto Route 65 or maybe 70 on there. Hard to go wrong with those.
Hey thanks! Still shopping wheels. Atom Road Hogs top the list. I will add your suggestion to that list.
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Old October 31st, 2017, 05:42 AM   #30
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Atom Road Hogs top the list.
Atom, feh. If you don't like your wheels round, I guess.
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Old October 31st, 2017, 06:15 AM   #31
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You should have enough clearance to fit Krypto Route 65 or maybe 70 on there. Hard to go wrong with those.
Very nice wheels for outside! Smooth and cushy ride!

.
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Old October 31st, 2017, 01:28 PM   #32
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Quote:
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Hey thanks! Still shopping wheels. Atom Road Hogs top the list. I will add your suggestion to that list.
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Very nice wheels for outside! Smooth and cushy ride!
I used a set for an outdoor quad race this year and I liked them. I also used a set of 70mm Rider Approved Designs (RAD) Glide 80A longboard wheels and the roll was really nice. The RAD wheels may work for you, but you mounted your plates w/ external bolts, so you might get wheel bite if you use a 70mm wheel. Maybe not, since the edges of the wheels are rounded. Depending on your axle length though, you may need to either loctite your nylock nuts or flip them around and install them nylon side inward. The spacing between the bearings is 10mm for longboard wheels vs 8mm for quad wheels.


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Old November 1st, 2017, 04:13 AM   #33
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The spacing between the bearings is 10mm for longboard wheels vs 8mm for quad wheels.
If you have access to a drill press reducing the bearing spacer is trivial



Center the wheel on a cutter and insert the board. Adjust the cutter to 1/2 the amount of material to be removed and lock the quill. Carefully move the wheel around to just remove material at the bottom of the bore. Once the material has been removed DO NOT UNLOCK THE QUILL but slide the board out and flip the wheel over and do the other side. Repeat for all the other wheels in the set.



Hard to see but the wheel on the right has has the bearing bore depth increased.



Also hard to see but the bearing in the right wheel is no longer flush with the back of the wheel.

it is much better to that your wheels firmly secured to axles than have nuts not fully engaged. Safety first!

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Old November 1st, 2017, 06:53 AM   #34
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"Center the wheel on a cutter and insert the board. Adjust the cutter to 1/2 the amount of material to be removed and lock the quill. Carefully move the wheel around to just remove material at the bottom of the bore. Once the material has been removed DO NOT UNLOCK THE QUILL but slide the board out and flip the wheel over and do the other side. Repeat for all the other wheels in the set."

What you are describing doesn't work if you have sideset bearings

Also this does not bode well for bearing alignment.
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Old November 1st, 2017, 07:12 AM   #35
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"Center the wheel on a cutter and insert the board. Adjust the cutter to 1/2 the amount of material to be removed and lock the quill. Carefully move the wheel around to just remove material at the bottom of the bore. Once the material has been removed DO NOT UNLOCK THE QUILL but slide the board out and flip the wheel over and do the other side. Repeat for all the other wheels in the set."

What you are describing doesn't work if you have sideset bearings
Good catch!

For sideset do either all the outside or inside bearing bore with the first setup then reset for the other side.

Looking at those wheels that is what I must have done, but it has been a while.


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Also this does not bode well for bearing alignment.
It works surprisingly well if you are careful as long as the bearings were well aligned to begin with. A light touch and going slow are the keys to not removing material you shouldn't!

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Old November 1st, 2017, 01:13 PM   #36
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Should not affect alignment at all, just spacing. If you machine on the outside side of the inner spacer, you won't affect wheel clearance between the inside face of the wheel and truck. Depending on wheels too. I have had some wheels in the past that had minimal clearance between the backside wheel face and the trucks. Had to add a spacer to prevent rubbing.
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Old November 1st, 2017, 01:17 PM   #37
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Quote:
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it is much better to that your wheels firmly secured to axles than have nuts not fully engaged. Safety first!
No one fully tightens down quads wheels anyway. This is why we use nylock nuts. Believe me, blue loctite is security enough, even when skating on rougher pavement outdoors.

There are several discussions on the forum about using bearing spacers in quad wheels.
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Old November 1st, 2017, 06:38 PM   #38
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No one fully tightens down quads wheels anyway. This is why we use nylock nuts. Believe me, blue loctite is security enough, even when skating on rougher pavement outdoors.

There are several discussions on the forum about using bearing spacers in quad wheels.
I think Wired is referring to using spacers. I don't use them so axle nut adjustment/setting is different.
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Old November 2nd, 2017, 02:18 AM   #39
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I use spacers on everything - quads, longboards, and inlines. Got quad spacers from SkateRatz

http://www.sk8ratz.com/bearing-space...-skate-wheels/

No way am I running skates/skateboards without bearing spacers. Nyloc nuts may or may not come off, but a seized or slow bearing will spin on the axle, which can't be good.

Also, there is A CHANCE, that a slow bearing on the left side of either quad can twist off a worn nyloc nut. No thanks. I could be bombing a bridge at 20 mph. Or a longboard same thing. Installing quality spacers also force both bearings in each wheel to be exactly parallel to each other (increasing efficiency), instead of whatever goofy alignment a plastic hub might cause. And you don't need any special skill to tighten down a nut. Without spacers, who knows what stress is being put on the inner race of the bearings. Too loose, too tight? Try explaining that in a YouTube video.

I do not get the big aversion to spacers for quad users. They seem necessary to me. I also use speed rings on the outside of both bearings to make a perfect contact with the truck and the nut. Unless I am running precision trucks. Nuts are never precision.
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Old November 2nd, 2017, 03:01 AM   #40
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Quote:
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I use spacers on everything - quads, longboards, and inlines. Got quad spacers from SkateRatz

http://www.sk8ratz.com/bearing-space...-skate-wheels/

No way am I running skates/skateboards without bearing spacers. Nyloc nuts may or may not come off, but a seized or slow bearing will spin on the axle, which can't be good.

Also, there is A CHANCE, that a slow bearing on the left side of either quad can twist off a worn nyloc nut. No thanks. I could be bombing a bridge at 20 mph. Or a longboard same thing. Installing quality spacers also force both bearings in each wheel to be exactly parallel to each other (increasing efficiency), instead of whatever goofy alignment a plastic hub might cause. And you don't need any special skill to tighten down a nut. Without spacers, who knows what stress is being put on the inner race of the bearings. Too loose, too tight? Try explaining that in a YouTube video.

I do not get the big aversion to spacers for quad users. They seem necessary to me. I also use speed rings on the outside of both bearings to make a perfect contact with the truck and the nut. Unless I am running precision trucks. Nuts are never precision.
I skated 7mm roller bearing back in the day, bent axles and lost bearings too. I skated spacered bearings when precision bearings first came out, bent axles and lost wheels. Now I skate 8mm, never lost a wheel, never bent an 8mm axle or lost a nylock nut. Wheels run looser without spacers and allow the wheels to get a better bite IMO. Tighten til snug, back off 1/2 turn exactly, done. No fuss, no wasted time figuring out something that already works well. More time for designing new plates and mods.
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