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Ask DocSk8 (Expert Indoor Skate Building Advice) This forum is different then the other SkateLog forums in that it is not a discussion forum, but rather a place you can ask skate building expert Fred "DocSk8" Benjamin about building and repairing indoor speed, derby, and jamskate quad roller skates. Please start a new thread for each new question.

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Old July 9th, 2012, 03:31 PM   #21
skate mech
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I ground 2 more flats on Nancy's pivots, so they have a square section now. Makes adjustment much easier. Also ground a 1/4" wrench thinner to fit in there better. I use Bearing grease on the pivots.
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Old July 10th, 2012, 04:05 AM   #22
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To be perfectly honest, I'm not seeing the prices I'd likely pay to convert these to reverse kingpins to be money well spent. For the same $60ish bucks I could convert and old SA45 plate to DA45 and get all that and more.
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True that... But i though the purpose of this was resurrecting a Super D??
It is. But what I'm getting at is with the old SA45 plate, my $60 investment makes for a major improvement in the skating experience, the adjustability AND the ease of assembling/maintaining the things. Here it's pretty much just the last one and a tiny bit more ease adjusting. Which half the folks who might end up on the things would never do more than once even if I advised them to.
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Old July 10th, 2012, 05:02 AM   #23
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Found the flat spots plain as day. I'm thinking the kingpin insertion/tightening process will grow on me. With the pivot pins being easy enough to adjust I can probably do that whole process a bit easier now. On the upside, the steel pivot cups look to be in good shape (though one pin seemed a bit longer than the other).

It's interesting how they made the rivets that secure the hangers a bit of a key part of the plates as far as mounting goes. Can't for the life of me figure out WHY they'd opt to do that...

One thing I've noticed is that the front hanger on each plate has a black hex screw coming down from the top/deck of the plate, apparently going into it to secure it while the rear hangers don't. Not the same 3/16 bit as the rest of the plate's screws, it's a smaller 5/32 one. Must be there because skaters are likely to put more weight on the front axle than the rear.
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Old July 10th, 2012, 06:36 AM   #24
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One thing I've noticed is that the front hanger on each plate has a black hex screw coming down from the top/deck of the plate, apparently going into it to secure it while the rear hangers don't. Not the same 3/16 bit as the rest of the plate's screws, it's a smaller 5/32 one. Must be there because skaters are likely to put more weight on the front axle than the rear.
Snyder claimed, that this withstands the impact of 2.5 tons. Much weight...
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Old July 10th, 2012, 03:13 PM   #25
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Old July 11th, 2012, 02:31 AM   #26
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Now that's a selling point I can't really mention to female buyers without it coming off as a rude comment about her weight...

While I've gone with Sure-Grip cushions and lower retainer, I've stuck with Snyder's upper retainer because that cross whatsit thing has something sticking out that seems to want to go through it. It strikes me that those may also want to go into the inner hole of the cushions as well. Should I not worry about this or should I look into modding the top inside radius of the upper cushions?
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Old July 11th, 2012, 03:47 AM   #27
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Now that's a selling point I can't really mention to female buyers without it coming off as a rude comment about her weight...

While I've gone with Sure-Grip cushions and lower retainer, I've stuck with Snyder's upper retainer because that cross whatsit thing has something sticking out that seems to want to go through it. It strikes me that those may also want to go into the inner hole of the cushions as well. Should I not worry about this or should I look into modding the top inside radius of the upper cushions?

I always counter bore the cushion to clear the lip on the cross bar nut.. Kennedy machines a bit of it off.. Different approaches to the same destination. A quick buzz with a countersink should give you what you need.
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Old July 11th, 2012, 02:23 PM   #28
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One thing I've noticed is that the front hanger on each plate has a black hex screw coming down from the top/deck of the plate, apparently going into it to secure it while the rear hangers don't.
The last handful of Royals I've gotten have been drilled and tapped for that screw, just with no screw installed.
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Old July 11th, 2012, 05:54 PM   #29
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The last handful of Royals I've gotten have been drilled and tapped for that screw, just with no screw installed.
drilled and tapped and no screw on my royals, at least now I know what it is for, not that I am at all woried about the rivets

When I saw it I thought it could possibly be used for a super secret "blind laser mount"

- take hardened set screw (I would guess 1-1/4" in length) of appropriate diameter/thread with a recessed allen head.
- Add expoxy to threads and wind it into a matching t nut (no barbs) untill it is flush with the top of the "T" on the t-tnut
- once expoxy dries in tnut/set screw, drill approiate 2 holes to mount your boot, and there you have it

Proabably would only want to try this on a carbon bont, not sure single t-nut would be wide enough to distribute load on a leather soled boot
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