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Old October 28th, 2009, 02:26 AM   #21
inlina
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For the OP.....you may just need to break in the new bearings or re-fit them.

For reference, a standard inline skate wheel has a 10mm bearing shoulder width in the middle of the hub so any 608 bearing with a standard inline wheel should work with any standard 10mm spacer, self centering or otherwise.

Problems can come about when the hub is molded badly or something generates a mis-alignment from either the hub, bearing spacer or the installation of the system. The former should not be your issue as you have not swapped wheels. First thing to check is that your bearing outer race is pressed right up against the bearing shoulder in the wheel. You can go back to your old spacers if that does not fix it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim White View Post
(608 bearings are only designed to bear load perpindicular to the rotational axis, not parallel to it).
That is an absolutely false statement. 608 bearings (any any deep groove ball bearing) can take a significant axial load relative to it's load ratings (static and dynamic) and the applied radial load along with the applied axial load.

A single pair of 608 bearings (ie. one wheel) with 1000N (a little over 100kg) applied at 45 degrees (354N radially and 354N axially per bearing) has an equivalent dynamic load of 620N where a 608 can take 3450N and a equivelant static load of 389N where a 608 can take 1370N.

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Old October 28th, 2009, 02:40 AM   #22
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Default Yes that part of the story was wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by inlina View Post
For the OP.....you may just need to break in the new bearings or re-fit them.

For reference, a standard inline skate wheel has a 10mm bearing shoulder width in the middle of the hub so any 608 bearing with a standard inline wheel should work with any standard 10mm spacer, self centering or otherwise.

Problems can come about when the hub is molded badly or something generates a mis-alignment from either the hub, bearing spacer or the installation of the system. The former should not be your issue as you have not swapped wheels. First thing to check is that your bearing outer race is pressed right up against the bearing shoulder in the wheel. You can go back to your old spacers if that does not fix it.



That is an absolutely false statement. 608 bearings (any any deep groove ball bearing) can take a significant axial load relative to it's load ratings (static and dynamic) and the applied radial load along with the applied axial load.

A single pair of 608 bearings (ie. one wheel) with 1000N (a little over 100kg) applied at 45 degrees (354N radially and 354N axially per bearing) has an equivalent dynamic load of 620N where a 608 can take 3450N and a equivelant static load of 389N where a 608 can take 1370N.

CG
I forgot to say that piece of Jim's analysis was quite off the mark.
Thanks, inlina, for clarifying the the facts about deep groove skate bearings.

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Old November 30th, 2009, 05:18 PM   #23
Dave Henniker
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I've experienced binding on some wheels when the screws were fully tight, using both self-centering aluminium spacers and cylindrical steel types. Sometimes removing the wheel and pressing hard on each bearing with a bearing remover tool fixed it.

A guaranteed fix was to slacken the Allen screws off maybe quarter of a turn. This could increase the risk of a wheel become loose. I've bought some Bondlock thread lock/seal as the original stuff gets worn off.

I've had this with various well known brands. I've tried the thin washers I found in my collection, to no avail. It's funny how some wheels spin so freely when the Allen screws are really tight, and others start to bind a bit.

http://www.henniker.org.uk/images/SK...Powerslide.jpg

Last edited by Kathie Fry; November 30th, 2009 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Forum guidelines don't allow hot linking to 3rd party images
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Old December 1st, 2009, 09:32 PM   #24
Armadillo
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Default Multiple things can cause this

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Henniker View Post
I've experienced binding on some wheels when the screws were fully tight, using both self-centering aluminium spacers and cylindrical steel types. Sometimes removing the wheel and pressing hard on each bearing with a bearing remover tool fixed it.

A guaranteed fix was to slacken the Allen screws off maybe quarter of a turn. This could increase the risk of a wheel become loose. I've bought some Bondlock thread lock/seal as the original stuff gets worn off.

I've had this with various well known brands. I've tried the thin washers I found in my collection, to no avail. It's funny how some wheels spin so freely when the Allen screws are really tight, and others start to bind a bit.


http://www.henniker.org.uk/images/SK...Powerslide.jpg

Too-short spacer lengths or imperfections of the wheel hubs are the two most likely reasons for this. Either they are dimensionally mismatched as far as the space between the shoulders inside the wheel hub relative to the axial length of spacer, or the two shoulder faces may not be parallel, causing bearings to have outer race tilt out of alignment with inner race (which pinches the balls).

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