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Ask DocSk8 (Expert Indoor Skate Building Advice) This forum is different then the other SkateLog forums in that it is not a discussion forum, but rather a place you can ask skate building expert Fred "DocSk8" Benjamin about building and repairing indoor speed, derby, and jamskate quad roller skates. Please start a new thread for each new question.

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Old March 2nd, 2010, 11:43 PM   #21
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Default They don't LOOK rusty...

I only notice the rust color when wiping them off. I'll have to ask the guy that gave them to me how long ago he rode them hard and put them away wet. Haha! Letting them soak for a day in mineral oil, shouldn't hurt them otherwise though, should it?
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 12:31 AM   #22
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Default Not a bit...

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I only notice the rust color when wiping them off. I'll have to ask the guy that gave them to me how long ago he rode them hard and put them away wet. Haha! Letting them soak for a day in mineral oil, shouldn't hurt them otherwise though, should it?

I'd switch to mineral spirits if it's handy
.
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 01:50 AM   #23
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Default Oops!

That's what I meant! I noticed that one of the ones that isn't coming clean is concave on the metal plate side. THAT's why i can't get it to roll! Can I just try to take it off and not have any shields? I guess at this point it couldn't hurt, right?
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 03:28 AM   #24
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I'd say. Caved in shields gotta go!!
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Old March 4th, 2010, 06:22 PM   #25
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For you guys that use mineral spirits: Have you ever cleaned BSB Swiss or Swiss Lite bearings using spirits and, if so, did you also clean the plastic clip in the same solution?

I'm not sure what that "plastic" is made of or if mineral spirits would damage it, but it's a pain to get the factory grease out of there. I've tried using a few different types of solvents, but nothing petroleum-based. I usually go at the clip with a toothbrush, but I'm just not getting the grease off and I'm sure there's still some grit stuck to those parts. I do the plastic/nylon/whatever by hand in a pan, The bearings I wash in a Bones cleaner jar thing.

Personallly, I've always had trouble cleaning bearings. They never seem to come out right, I'm sure it's my technique. This is a good thread though, and my wife's bearings are HURTING for a cleaning about now I'm tempted to try the bearings with mineral spirits in the bones cleaner. They advise against it, but if anyone's had success with this combination I'm willing to try it out.
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Old March 4th, 2010, 06:45 PM   #26
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Default OK

WARNING: DO NOT fiddle with the bearing while the crown is out. It is possible to accidentally "disassemble" the bearing if all the balls get together on one side...

Re-assembly takes more time and trouble than you could possibly imagine...Unless you have already done it...

Clean the bearing as best you can. Then pop the crown (plastic ball spacer) out. GENTLY lay the bearing aside in a tray...Just in case. Scrub the crown. Gently reinstall the crown.. Lube up and go.
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Old March 4th, 2010, 06:56 PM   #27
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I pull the nylon ball retaining cage out and throw them and the bearings in mineral spirits.

After swishing them all around I will spin each bearing by hand in the solution until I feel them free of dirt.

Then every thing is taken out and shook free of mineral spirits.

Next, everything gets rinsed off by placing them in 90% or higher alcohol and swishing them around. This washes off the mineral spirits and will cause the bearings to dry immediately leaving no residue.

The bearings are place on a clean cloth and I put on 3 drops of "3in1" oil and give them each a spin to coat all the balls.

Using a toothpick (or anything fine) I carefully separate the balls, of each bearing, to equally space them in the races. Now you can pop the nylon ball cage back on. (don't force them or you can damage the nylon)

Finally I will add 3 more drops of oil.
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Old March 5th, 2010, 03:27 PM   #28
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The balls ALWAYS go to one side of the bearing for me, but I haven't had them fall out yet (whew!). I guess it makes sense that it could happen though, thanks for the heads up.

I usually spin the bearing a few times and the balls separate up a little, then spread them with the same safety pin that I took the cage out with. Of course, that's metal, maybe I should use a toothpick...

Sheldon: I will try that this weekend with my wife's bearings (is it uncool to practice on hers? . Using the alcohol as a final step makes really good sense, thanks! It sounds like you don't "soak" those plastic cages, just give them a rinse.

Thanks for the suggestions!
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Old March 5th, 2010, 03:31 PM   #29
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Mineral spirits won't ruin the nylon ball cage. I have left them in for days.
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Old March 5th, 2010, 03:35 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Mineral spirits won't ruin the nylon ball cage. I have left them in for days.
Excellent! While I'm sure the grease that they are manufactured with is great stuff, I want to get it all out of there and start from scratch when they get dirty, so it's good to know that I can leave them in for a little while. The citrus cleaners and biodegradable stuff that I've been using don't seem to loosen that grease at all.
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Old March 5th, 2010, 04:35 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWI-Sheldon View Post
I pull the nylon ball retaining cage out and throw them and the bearings in mineral spirits.

After swishing them all around I will spin each bearing by hand in the solution until I feel them free of dirt.

Then every thing is taken out and shook free of mineral spirits.

Next, everything gets rinsed off by placing them in 90% or higher alcohol and swishing them around. This washes off the mineral spirits and will cause the bearings to dry immediately leaving no residue.

The bearings are place on a clean cloth and I put on 3 drops of "3in1" oil and give them each a spin to coat all the balls.

Using a toothpick (or anything fine) I carefully separate the balls, of each bearing, to equally space them in the races. Now you can pop the nylon ball cage back on. (don't force them or you can damage the nylon)

Finally I will add 3 more drops of oil.
I want to try this method with acetone. I'm no chemist, so I want to be certain that a couple minutes in acetone will not damage the plastic cages and that the combination of acetone and alcohol in the rinse process will not result in a nasty chemical reaction.

Call me cautious. I've been at a pool facility when a dumb lifeguard accidentally combined muratic acid and chlorine basically creating mustard gas.
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Old March 5th, 2010, 05:44 PM   #32
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I want to try this method with acetone. I'm no chemist, so I want to be certain that a couple minutes in acetone will not damage the plastic shields and that the combination of acetone and alcohol in the rinse process will not result in a nasty chemical reaction.

Call me cautious. I've been at a pool facility when a dumb lifeguard accidentally combined muratic acid and chlorine basically creating mustard gas.
Acetone will damage some plastic bearing cages so be careful.
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Old March 6th, 2010, 02:47 AM   #33
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Quote:
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Acetone will damage some plastic bearing cages so be careful.
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Old March 10th, 2010, 09:33 PM   #34
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What is the best 90% or higher alcohol to use? I'm talking utilitarian alcohol, not $50 a bottle stuff. I know people that clean things with alcohol but use branded everclear alcohols and they cost a small fortune when you consider that you're basically using it as a cleaning agent. Is there anything cheap that does the job? I'm going to get some mineral spirits tonight, I have a feeling I'll need to be cleaning my bearings again real soon.

Last edited by verymetal; March 11th, 2010 at 12:20 AM.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 12:30 AM   #35
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90% or higher Isopropyl alcohol available at Walmart for under $3 a quart.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 12:31 AM   #36
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Awesome, thanks Sheldon!!

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90% or higher Isopropyl alcohol available at Walmart for under $3 a quart.
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Old March 11th, 2010, 08:23 PM   #37
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I tend to use Methylated Spirits for cleaning my bearings - not sure what it's called in the US but it may be sold as "denatured alcohol"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

It's usually bright purple in colour and has additives to make it taste bad (therefore making it chaper to buy than pure ethanol as it doesn't attract the same taxes).
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Old March 13th, 2010, 02:41 PM   #38
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+1


Quote:
Originally Posted by Elysarian View Post
I tend to use Methylated Spirits for cleaning my bearings - not sure what it's called in the US but it may be sold as "denatured alcohol"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

It's usually bright purple in colour and has additives to make it taste bad (therefore making it chaper to buy than pure ethanol as it doesn't attract the same taxes).
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Old March 16th, 2010, 01:43 AM   #39
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Is there a liquid that removes the grease without damaging the bearing? I know that WD40 and White Spirit are corrosive.
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Old March 16th, 2010, 02:06 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rollman View Post
Is there a liquid that removes the grease without damaging the bearing? I know that WD40 and White Spirit are corrosive.
From their web site
Quote:
How long does WD-40 last after application?

While this may vary depending on the application, WD-40 remains effective even after it appears to dry. The corrosion and rust protection ingredients remain adhered to the surface. External conditions may, of course, require additional applications of WD-40 for maximum protection.
I have been using it since I was a kid to prevent corrosion.
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