S k a t e L o g     F o r u m
Inline Skating and Quad Roller Skating
Forum Hosts: Jessica Wright | Kathie Fry

FOLLOW US: Our Blog | Facebook | Twitter | Email    


Home - Forum Index - Africa Skating - Asia Skating - Europe Skating - Oceania Skating - Pan America Skating - Roller_Rinks - Friend the SkateLog Forum in Facebook - SkateLog Forum on Facebook

Forum Administrators: Jessica Wright and Kathie Fry | Email Us
Access code for buying and selling subforums: "skates"
How To Get a User Account and Posting Privileges in the SkateLog Forum
Use Google to Search the SkateLog Forum

Go Back   SkateLog Forum > Special Interest Skating Forums (sorted by number of posts) > Ask DocSk8 (Expert Indoor Skate Building Advice)
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Ask DocSk8 (Expert Indoor Skate Building Advice) This forum is different then the other SkateLog forums in that it is not a discussion forum, but rather a place you can ask skate building expert Fred "DocSk8" Benjamin about building and repairing indoor speed, derby, and jamskate quad roller skates. Please start a new thread for each new question.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old March 17th, 2010, 03:39 PM   #41
verymetal
Soul-Glo
 
verymetal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 123
Default

I have always used WD-40 as a very effective degreaser for other purposes than bearings. Spray on, let the muck run off, wipe down, apply lithium grease or whatever it is you prefer to use, this has always worked really well for me but it's my understanding that it's not the best method for bearings. Maybe I'll give it a try though.. who knows, might stumble on something that really works well... or I might ruin a set of bearings
verymetal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 17th, 2010, 04:33 PM   #42
Inline?-LOL
Did you just fall???
 
Inline?-LOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 558
Default

I use Denatured Alcohol (Lowes, Home Depot) and a Bones bearing cleaning jar. Works awesome, removes old grease, dries fast, does not leave a residue. Cleans plastic/nylon cages well also. If needed I will use a nylon brush. I use compressed air to dry and apply Bones Speed Cream.
__________________
"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty-eight miles per hour... you're gonna see some serious sh*t." - Dr. Emmett Brown
Inline?-LOL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 17th, 2010, 10:41 PM   #43
BWI-Sheldon
Pro Bike Chaser
 
BWI-Sheldon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 3,378
Default

For cleaning and emergency water removal, WD40 is good. For using as intended lubrication, WD40 is bad and causes problems.
BWI-Sheldon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 17th, 2010, 11:06 PM   #44
Doc Sk8
Yankee Catfish
 
Doc Sk8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Big hill on Mars
Posts: 11,942
Default +1

Quote:
Originally Posted by BWI-Sheldon View Post
For cleaning and emergency water removal, WD40 is good. For using as intended lubrication, WD40 is bad and causes problems.
Not for lube, I was answering the corrosion comment...
__________________
If you are willing to compromise on results, by all means, compromise on equipment. If you think you can get by, you most likely will...Just get by.
Doc Sk8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 2nd, 2010, 03:29 PM   #45
Snarf77
Jump On It
 
Snarf77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Baldwin, MD
Posts: 361
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Sk8 View Post
From their web site (WD-40)


I have been using it since I was a kid to prevent corrosion.

DOC (or anyone). I have searched the forums for "storing bearings" "bearing storage" "bearing tubes" and numerous other search terms with little luck.

What is the best way to store bearings for longer-term. Right now I oil them and stick them in baggies, but that isn't ideal for me. I was thinking coin tubes or some other air-tight cylinder.

BUT even if I found something, what is the best storage oil-something more viscous? WD-40 prevents corrosion, is that enough?
__________________
This Space Intentionally Left Blank
Snarf77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 2nd, 2010, 04:16 PM   #46
Doc Sk8
Yankee Catfish
 
Doc Sk8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Big hill on Mars
Posts: 11,942
Default Grease

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snarf77 View Post
DOC (or anyone). I have searched the forums for "storing bearings" "bearing storage" "bearing tubes" and numerous other search terms with little luck.

What is the best way to store bearings for longer-term. Right now I oil them and stick them in baggies, but that isn't ideal for me. I was thinking coin tubes or some other air-tight cylinder.

BUT even if I found something, what is the best storage oil-something more viscous? WD-40 prevents corrosion, is that enough?
Seal 'em and put a little desiccant in the tube as well.

Every once in a while you can score tubes that hold 50 bearings on eBay...
__________________
If you are willing to compromise on results, by all means, compromise on equipment. If you think you can get by, you most likely will...Just get by.
Doc Sk8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 7th, 2010, 03:53 PM   #47
Poobah
Senior Member
 
Poobah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,272
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inline?-LOL View Post
I use Denatured Alcohol (Lowes, Home Depot) and a Bones bearing cleaning jar. Works awesome, removes old grease, dries fast, does not leave a residue. Cleans plastic/nylon cages well also. If needed I will use a nylon brush. I use compressed air to dry and apply Bones Speed Cream.
I have one of those Bones bearing cleaning jars. Lost the damned instructions that said how to use 'em. I can probably find that online though.

I'd imagine I'd want to take off the dust covers but leave the balls inside their retainers/races.
__________________
*~[
Grand Poobah
Stats Geek
Poobah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 17th, 2010, 09:45 AM   #48
Elysarian
Ex-Pat Wiganer
 
Elysarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Lincoln, United Kingdom
Posts: 1,307
Default

OK...

I just this week found a better way to clean my bearings

I bought a product that's sold for cleaning bike (motor bike or bicycle) chains - it smells like it's isopropyl alcohol based & evaporates real quick after application, I got it from my local Lidl.

It made my bearings free-spin a lot faster and quieter than any other substance I've used (more crud evident on the newspaper I use to tap the bearings on too).

I also got a can of ptfe-based lube and will let you know how that works after I've skated the bearings

I guess the guys recommending Isopropyl alcohol were right
__________________
Wigan Roller Rink, The place to be seen

Now with added Daughter!
Elysarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 17th, 2010, 02:45 PM   #49
scubask8tr
Senior Member
 
scubask8tr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Perth Western Australia
Posts: 1,356
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elysarian View Post
OK...

I just this week found a better way to clean my bearings

I bought a product that's sold for cleaning bike (motor bike or bicycle) chains - it smells like it's isopropyl alcohol based & evaporates real quick after application, I got it from my local Lidl.

It made my bearings free-spin a lot faster and quieter than any other substance I've used (more crud evident on the newspaper I use to tap the bearings on too).

I also got a can of ptfe-based lube and will let you know how that works after I've skated the bearings

I guess the guys recommending Isopropyl alcohol were right
What is the brand name of this miracle cleaner ?
__________________
Bont QRC ,Boen speed 6, Boen Special 162.
Aussie OG hard fanjets/Deanos ,Fafnir 8 ball
GENERAL JUSTICE PERTH ROLLER DERBY
scubask8tr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old April 22nd, 2010, 04:54 PM   #50
Elysarian
Ex-Pat Wiganer
 
Elysarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Lincoln, United Kingdom
Posts: 1,307
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by scubask8tr View Post
What is the brand name of this miracle cleaner ?
The brand name is W5, picked it up for 99p at my local Lidl, comes in an aerosol
__________________
Wigan Roller Rink, The place to be seen

Now with added Daughter!
Elysarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 8th, 2010, 05:04 AM   #51
SDean
Junior Member
 
SDean's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 8
Default Never use water to clean on your steel bearings

Seriously unless your bearings are made of plastic never use water on them. Tempered stainless steel will corrode faster then you could ever dry them. I suggest you head down to your local bike shop and pick up an organic de-greaser. Something like Finishline Citrus works good to remove oil and dirt.

Now if you have ceramic bearings only use what the manufacturer recommends. If they recommend water and soap than have at it.
SDean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 8th, 2010, 05:38 AM   #52
Doc Sk8
Yankee Catfish
 
Doc Sk8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Big hill on Mars
Posts: 11,942
Default ??

Quote:
Originally Posted by SDean View Post
Seriously unless your bearings are made of plastic never use water on them. Tempered stainless steel will corrode faster then you could ever dry them.

I'm sorry, I don't know of any skate bearings constructed of "tempered stainless steel". I have run across a few stainless and those were recommended for sk8ing (racing) in the rain....

And why would any "stainless" steel corrode rapidly at all??


I suggest you head down to your local bike shop and pick up an organic de-greaser. Something like Finishline Citrus works good to remove oil and dirt.

Sure, why not.. But if all you have is soap water and dirty bearings...

Now if you have ceramic bearings only use what the manufacturer recommends. If they recommend water and soap than have at it.

Care to expand on where this interesting info is coming from?? I'm curious...
__________________
If you are willing to compromise on results, by all means, compromise on equipment. If you think you can get by, you most likely will...Just get by.
Doc Sk8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 8th, 2010, 04:04 PM   #53
SDean
Junior Member
 
SDean's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 8
Default

Doc Sk8, Sure I will gladly share where I gleaned my information from. For a number of years I was CNC technician. I spent two years going to school to learn how to repair and maintain 5 axis milling machines used to build airplane skins and spars for Boeing. In that two years of training I spend 40 hours of training on everything about bearing from how they work, to how to clean and repair bearings. Over the years I have had extensive experiences working with bearings much smaller than the ones used for skating to bearings used in AC drive motors that weigh over a thousand pounds. In my previous job it was critical that I understood how bearings worked and how to services them correctly. These where bearings that needed to operate for 1000's hours without failure.

I can see how you could think that water would not hurt a stainless steel bearing but I have 2" stainless steel ball out of a bearing that was wet for less than 5 minutes that is discolored because of the corrosion process was already underway. Now in the precision bearing that are used for skates wheels we cannot get a clear picture of the bearing without destroying the bearing. But after you clean a bearing and if you can see any discoloration of the race the process of changing the chemical structure of the bearing has started.
SDean is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 8th, 2010, 05:54 PM   #54
FarmTruk
rusty bones
 
FarmTruk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Wallburg, NC
Posts: 834
Default

FarmTruk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 8th, 2010, 07:25 PM   #55
Doc Sk8
Yankee Catfish
 
Doc Sk8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Big hill on Mars
Posts: 11,942
Default All very interesting...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SDean View Post
Doc Sk8, Sure I will gladly share where I gleaned my information from. For a number of years I was CNC technician. I spent two years going to school to learn how to repair and maintain 5 axis milling machines used to build airplane skins and spars for Boeing. In that two years of training I spend 40 hours of training on everything about bearing from how they work, to how to clean and repair bearings. Over the years I have had extensive experiences working with bearings much smaller than the ones used for skating to bearings used in AC drive motors that weigh over a thousand pounds. In my previous job it was critical that I understood how bearings worked and how to services them correctly. These where bearings that needed to operate for 1000's hours without failure.

Thanks for sharing... You still did not answer my question about tempered Stainless bearings.....

I can see how you could think that water would not hurt a stainless steel bearing but I have 2" stainless steel ball out of a bearing that was wet for less than 5 minutes that is discolored because of the corrosion process was already underway.

And? I have done hundreds of Non Stainless sk8 bearings in soap and water with NO obvious detrimental side effects.... since the crud the bearings pick up from sk8ing is far more damaging...

So I'm gonna say my cleaning experience with many bearings trumps your one corroded ball...

Now in the precision bearing that are used for skates wheels we cannot get a clear picture of the bearing without destroying the bearing.

Let me suggest some more study of SK8 BEARINGS on your part. Here is a good place to start.....http://bonesbearings.com/support/maintenance/ These guys are the APEX of the SK8 BEARING industry.. Odd.... they mention cleaning bearings with water based cleaners

Quote:
If you use a water based cleaner like a citrus cleaner or a detergent, be sure to dry your bearings IMMEDIATELY and then re-coat them with lubricant to prevent rust.
and DO NOT prohibit it anywhere I have seen in their instructions.

I have routinely disassembled many sk8 bearings over the years and fully examined them under 40x stereo magnification and then successfully re-assembled them and run them for many years. Look at FarmTruk's avatar.... Perhaps you can see more of what is going than you thought in a sk8 bearing...even before you take it apart...

But after you clean a bearing and if you can see any discoloration of the race the process of changing the chemical structure of the bearing has started.
I will agree to that but it is really not all that relevant to the sk8 bearing discussion. I have sk8ed 8 ball Fafnirs that were frozen solid with rusty gunk. They cleaned up and rolled with hardly a whisper... and keep on rolling...

I understand your background and appreciate your concerns...but SK8 bearings are NOT precision machine bearings. The applications are as different as night and day. I suggest most sk8rs routinely sk8 and have no issues with bearings that would be thrown away in a precision machine application...


__________________
If you are willing to compromise on results, by all means, compromise on equipment. If you think you can get by, you most likely will...Just get by.
Doc Sk8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 12th, 2010, 08:06 AM   #56
Elysarian
Ex-Pat Wiganer
 
Elysarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Lincoln, United Kingdom
Posts: 1,307
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Sk8 View Post
I will agree to that but it is really not all that relevant to the sk8 bearing discussion. I have sk8ed 8 ball Fafnirs that were frozen solid with rusty gunk. They cleaned up and rolled with hardly a whisper... and keep on rolling...

I understand your background and appreciate your concerns...but SK8 bearings are NOT precision machine bearings. The applications are as different as night and day. I suggest most sk8rs routinely sk8 and have no issues with bearings that would be thrown away in a precision machine application...


Which is why we all keep telling people "ABEC rating is pretty irrelevant to skating applications" (to paraphrase).

It is nice to get input from people with some education in the field of precision bearings but, as Doc said, a skate ain't a precision machine - heck, the tolerances in wheel hubs and between inner bearing race and axle would make a machine operator/engineer cry in most cases
__________________
Wigan Roller Rink, The place to be seen

Now with added Daughter!
Elysarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 13th, 2010, 01:26 AM   #57
Sk8fever
Senior Member
 
Sk8fever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 668
Question When to do the first bearing cleaning?

This thread has provided much good info and I think I now know what I have to do as far as removal, cleaning solution, drying, etc.

How do you know when it's time for the FIRST cleaning/lube of new bearings?
How many hours would you typically skate before doing the first cleaning/lube?

My situation is indoor quad skating, pretty clean floors, I only notice a little dust on the wheels/trucks so far after about 15 hrs total. Bearings have covers, still rolling about as good as the first time out. Skates stored indoors, cool/dry conditions.

Thanks everyone!
__________________
Riedell 126/Powerdyne Triton and Bont Quad Carbon Racer/Skins DA45
Heartless Chasers/Atom Stroker Slims/Anabolix
"Laissez les bon temps rouler!"
Sk8fever is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 17th, 2010, 04:41 PM   #58
Soul_Skater
Black Az Mike
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mesa,Az
Posts: 9
Default

I have a set of BONE SWISS bearings that are over 15 years old and they started to rust from my dads swamp cooler. here is what I did.....

Step 1. put bearings in a glass jar filled with wd-40 and soak
2. pull out of jar and dry off with a lint free towell
3. use a few cans of chlorinated brake cleaner(alchol base) and spray until all debri/grease/dirt/wd-40 is out.
4.blow dry with a air compressor with a high pressure blow gun
5.apply bones speed cream to each bearing(use alot)
6. install them in a old set of wheel and take the dog for a few runs around the neighborhood. This will alow excess lube to remove itself from the bearings.
7. remove from the old wheels and wipe with a clean towell.
8. install in your rink wheels and they will haul a.....

This is what I did recently and WOW!!!! Now I see why I paid so much for a bearing that still spins longer than most ABEC rated bearings Money well spent


I did the same thing with my sons cheap skateboard bgs and they roll like new again. Here is the parts list of what I used...

1 case of CHLORINATED brake parts cleaner(autozone,napa,checker,kragen,etc)
1 bottle of wd-40(autozone,napa,checker,kragen,etc)
1 bottle of bones spped cream or whatever you prefer. (skate shop)
1 bag of micro-fiber rags(autozone,napa,checker,kragen,etc)
1 six pack of your favorite beverage
__________________
"Live To Sk8,Sk8 To Live"
Soul_Skater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 17th, 2010, 04:44 PM   #59
Soul_Skater
Black Az Mike
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mesa,Az
Posts: 9
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sk8fever View Post
This thread has provided much good info and I think I now know what I have to do as far as removal, cleaning solution, drying, etc.

How do you know when it's time for the FIRST cleaning/lube of new bearings?
Once a month and you will be fine. I know of guys that do it once a week.
How many hours would you typically skate before doing the first cleaning/lube?roughly 20hrs or 4 sessions out here

My situation is indoor quad skating, pretty clean floors, I only notice a little dust on the wheels/trucks so far after about 15 hrs total. Bearings have covers, still rolling about as good as the first time out. Skates stored indoors, cool/dry conditions.
I carry a bottle of speed cream,q-tips,rags and a can of air duster for computers in my bag to clean if needed at the rink.

Thanks everyone!

Hope this helps buddy
__________________
"Live To Sk8,Sk8 To Live"
Soul_Skater is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 17th, 2010, 04:58 PM   #60
Elysarian
Ex-Pat Wiganer
 
Elysarian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Lincoln, United Kingdom
Posts: 1,307
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soul_Skater View Post
I have a set of BONE SWISS bearings that are over 15 years old and they started to rust from my dads swamp cooler. here is what I did.....

Step 1. put bearings in a glass jar filled with wd-40 and soak
2. pull out of jar and dry off with a lint free towell
3. use a few cans of chlorinated brake cleaner(alchol base) and spray until all debri/grease/dirt/wd-40 is out.
4.blow dry with a air compressor with a high pressure blow gun
5.apply bones speed cream to each bearing(use alot)
6. install them in a old set of wheel and take the dog for a few runs around the neighborhood. This will alow excess lube to remove itself from the bearings.
7. remove from the old wheels and wipe with a clean towell.
8. install in your rink wheels and they will haul a.....

This is what I did recently and WOW!!!! Now I see why I paid so much for a bearing that still spins longer than most ABEC rated bearings Money well spent


I did the same thing with my sons cheap skateboard bgs and they roll like new again. Here is the parts list of what I used...

1 case of CHLORINATED brake parts cleaner(autozone,napa,checker,kragen,etc)
1 bottle of wd-40(autozone,napa,checker,kragen,etc)
1 bottle of bones spped cream or whatever you prefer. (skate shop)
1 bag of micro-fiber rags(autozone,napa,checker,kragen,etc)
1 six pack of your favorite beverage
I personally don't see why steps 1 & 2 are needed tbh - just a waste of wd-40 imho...

I would recommend storing bearings in a jar with wd-40 though.
__________________
Wigan Roller Rink, The place to be seen

Now with added Daughter!
Elysarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 03:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.