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Old June 17th, 2009, 07:49 PM   #1
gibsonsgking
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Default How to remove bearings

I just got some bones swiss to replace the reds I have in my shamans, but I can't get the reds out! I got em out of the one wheel easily with a screwdriver, but I just cant get the other wheel to budge. I really wanted to try them when I go to the rink later today
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Old June 17th, 2009, 08:06 PM   #2
Elysarian
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Default Drift them out carefully

Get a bolt or other blunt metal object, poke through from the opposite side of the wheel and locate it on the inner race of the tight bearing and gently tap it

You'll need to move the bolt around as you tap otherwise the bearing will try to come out at an angle and either get more jammed, damage your hub or both.

I used to use this method to remove the bottom bracket cups from my BMX in my teens.
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Old June 17th, 2009, 08:20 PM   #3
Armadillo
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Default Use your plate + axle to drive out 1st bearing, then toe stop for 2nd one

I don't have a bearing tool.

I use a 1/4" drill to remove the 1st bearing (inner one). With inside of wheel toward me, I slide the shank of the drill up through the outer bearing toward the inner one while tilting drill bit so that it engages the inner race when it hits the inner bearing. Then with the shank end of drill engaged with inner race, I place tip of drill against a board on floor. Now with wheel horizontal and drill still tilted with respect to the wheel, I use the heels of each hand on opposite sides of the wheel to push down on wheel abruptly, while maintaining the wheel tilt against the drill bit to keep its end pushing up on the inner bearing nearest my hands. If it doesn't pop out on the first push, I rotate 180 degrees and do it again.

Once the inner bearing pops out, and any spacer present is removed, I then use an old toe stop with a 5/8" ALUMINUM thread to remove the 2nd outer bearing. Place toe stop on floor with rubber against floor, and thread angling up toward you. Put wheel over toe stop thread until it comes up through wheel to hit bearing. Center bearing on tip of thread. Use both heels of hand against wheel and press down abruptly to remove bearing. Be sure end of toe stop thread is flat amd smooth to not damage the seal.

This works for all bot the tightest bearings.

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Old June 17th, 2009, 08:44 PM   #4
gibsonsgking
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The problem is though, that it's in so tight any methods I try just won't get it out. I don't know why it's so tight, but it needs to come out. Would a bearing puller make it easier?
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Old June 17th, 2009, 08:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gibsonsgking View Post
The problem is though, that it's in so tight any methods I try just won't get it out. I don't know why it's so tight, but it needs to come out. Would a bearing puller make it easier?
Cock a flathead or something unsharp(at an angle) in between the bearing bores and let it sit on the bearing bore (the piece where the axle goes inside)...tap it with a hammer...and it should come out. Make sure your not hitting the seals or you will damage the bearings.
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Old June 17th, 2009, 09:16 PM   #6
gibsonsgking
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Originally Posted by A-Town Sk8er View Post
Cock a flathead or something unsharp(at an angle) in between the bearing bores and let it sit on the bearing bore (the piece where the axle goes inside)...tap it with a hammer...and it should come out. Make sure your not hitting the seals or you will damage the bearings.

I really don't even care anymore if I damage them

We have plenty of extras, and I really want these bearings in
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Old June 17th, 2009, 10:06 PM   #7
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Default Soak It

I wonder if a little penetrating oil applied to the bearing and hub would help loosen it up a bit? W-D-40, Zep 45 w/teflon, Gunk etc...
Bearings usually can be removed by tapping with a hammer. I set a large socket on the bench and center the wheel. Take a flat end punch that will fit in between the bearings and rest on the stuck bearing. You should be able to rotate and hit that punch harder and harder until the bearing starts inching its way out. This will probably ruin the bearing if you pound on it too much. You should not really hit bearings.
You ought to be able to give that bearing a pretty good smack to get it out. If you can't smack it hard enough to get it moving, I'd say you have a pretty suck bearing. Let er soak for awhile, Good Luck!
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Old June 17th, 2009, 10:14 PM   #8
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dont keep hitting in one place make sure to move around so that you dont jam them in there
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Old June 17th, 2009, 10:52 PM   #9
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Default Heat up wheel over stove burner

Get wheel as hot as you can stand to touch and try again.

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Old June 18th, 2009, 12:52 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by gibsonsgking View Post
Would a bearing puller make it easier?
In a word...

YES!!!
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Old June 18th, 2009, 03:32 AM   #11
gibsonsgking
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Originally Posted by Armadillo View Post
Get wheel as hot as you can stand to touch and try again.

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Won't that mess with the urethane? I really love the wheels, but won't be able to get replacements if these get screwed up for quite a while...
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In a word...

YES!!!
I think I'll just let the guys at my rink have a go at it if I can't get it.
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Old June 18th, 2009, 03:52 AM   #12
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Once you get one out just grab a 1/4 drive extension, place the wheel on a hard surface put the extension right in the center of the bearing and hit it with a hammer. If its the back side bearings set the wheel on top another. The 1/4 drive extension will fit right in the middle and wont walk out since its got a slight dome on the end. works every time.
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Old June 18th, 2009, 05:26 AM   #13
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Default Heat up to 175 F. should be no problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by OffTheEdge View Post
Once you get one out just grab a 1/4 drive extension, place the wheel on a hard surface put the extension right in the center of the bearing and hit it with a hammer. If its the back side bearings set the wheel on top another. The 1/4 drive extension will fit right in the middle and wont walk out since its got a slight dome on the end. works every time.
Heating wheel up to 175 F. should not harm urethane, and aluminum or plastic hub will expand more than steel bearing will, thus loosening it.

Hammering on bearings will damage them. This is why I use old toe stop with ALUMINUM thread to remove 2nd bearing, and only force it using my two hands' pressure on wheel.

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